Woody in the Amazon
Dodging the thieves and beggars in Bogota, travelling on rickety old buses with peasants and animals through the winding mountain roads of the Andes and experiencing the exotic Caribbean coastal beaches of northern Colombia was quite an experience. It was finally brought to a climax with a journey into the depths of the Amazon jungle for me and fellow adventurer Nigel Barling.
The motor launch set off from Leticia at the junction of Colombia, Brazil and Peru after our Indian guide had been paid in pesos. Our aim was to venture deep into the Amazon jungle. After we set off the river became an endless grey expanse with impenetrable vegetation each side and didn’t change much for several hours but as we turned into a narrow tributary we passed semi naked Indians in canoes, groups of women washing clothes near the shore and giant rodents called Capybaras swimming nearby. The humid atmosphere felt suffocating as spots of rain fell.
We stopped at an opening in the jungle and stepped ashore. A Jaguar Indian boy watched from the top of a nearby tree. Nigel overturned a stone to find a deadly snake underneath. It attacked but Nigel killed it with a rock and the danger passed. Exploring the area Nigel climbed on top of a large branch protruding into the tributary and put his arm into a hole in a nearby tree. In seconds giant ants were streaming up his arm. Letting out a yell he jumped into the water and brushed away the insects but being told that piranhas were found in these parts he vacated the water with haste. We made our way back to the motor launch and the waiting Indian guide.
Travelling much farther along the narrow tributary and under overhanging vegetation, we were watched closely by peeping Tikuna Indians, faces painted red. Eventually we reached another opening and walked along a winding, narrow pathway to a Tikuna village with wooden houses on stilts. Indians gathered to watch suspiciously as we journeyed farther. I noticed a pot with a capybara cooking over a fire. The village chief approached, greeted us apprehensively then showed off a tarantula in a small wicker basket and allowed me to take photos.
The Indians were eerily silent and emotionless as I took their photos, almost as if they didn’t understand. An Indian with a red painted face played panpipes as we stopped at one building and others touched us laughing and fascinated by the tattoos on Nigel’s arms.
After a while the Indians became more serious and our guide instructed us to give money. I pulled out a wad of pesos and handed out some notes. More Indians joined the gathering holding out their hands. The atmosphere turned tense. The guide told us to move cautiously towards the river as the Indians became increasingly agitated. We walked backwards handing out money then ran at full speed towards the boat with the yelling Indians following behind. We leapt into the boat with beating hearts, the guide pulled the engine cord and we sped away, relieved to escape a threatening situation. The grey skies immediately opened and a prolonged deluge of rain soaked us to the skin but it was followed by a magnificent brown and orange sunset which tinged the area with a brilliant glow. As darkness fell we eventually reached Leticia, happy to arrive although a little ruffled by our Amazonian experience.
